Page 203 - Mit dem Wohnwagen durch Australien 2

delicious. On our way back down south we thought that we wanted to enjoy that experience again and the steak was
terrible. Hard, black and burnt. When we asked why there was such a difference, we were told that the cook was off
the second day and a handyman was in the kitchen. This time we made sure, that we enquired first if the cook was
on duty before ordering a meal. Glendambo was the first of the revisited places which in parts still looks exactly the
same as we remember it.

COOBER PEDY
Coober Pedy has grown out of all proportions and in all directions. 55 km before the town you can already see little
white molehills from the opal seekers adorning the flat land right and left of the highway. Coming closer the landscape
resembles a huge rabbit warren with hills and holes everywhere. The town itself has definitely gone to seeds. Even
though it now sports a supermarket, most of the other shops look definitely derelict, dusty and sad. They are
attended by pensioned off miners who give a half hearted effort. The road is now bitumen but so full of red dirt, that
you can hardly see the black tarmac underneath; nothing like the hustle and bustle of the other big opal town,

LIGHTNING RIDGE.
In addition to all of that, the mice caught up with us. We had three more blind passengers in a row, until I finally lay
under the Caravan to check out where there could be an entry. And sure enough there was an outlet for waste water
coming through the floorboard which left a small gap and there the mice were able to climb in. I took some steel
wool and silicon paste and closed it off. Now we should be mouse safe. Well, the next day I heard some scratching
and gnawing, but did not see any signs in the caravan. It turned out, that a mouse tried to get in and found the entry
way barred. It left tooth marks next to my handy work, but could not destroy it. Let’s see how long we can withstand
the siege.

One of the best stops we had was on Cadney Homestead Roadhouse. No sooner did we park the caravan, that we
heard a loud engine noise and saw a flying doctor plane land right next o us. Out come a lady doctor and two nurses.
They are here to see to the cook who complains of stomach aches. Shall we really eat in the Roadhouse tonight?
They take up one of the motel rooms and then hold a clinic for everyone who needs their services and has phoned
ahead to make an appointment. The RFDS land regularly once a month here. It is the only possibility for the people
around here to get to a GP. As a night spectacle we were promised the passing of the luxurious Ghan train which
rumbles by here once or twice a week on its journey from Adelaide to Darwin. We visit the Painted Desert and the
Ackaringa hills from there. If you love desert and changing colours, this is one of the highlights of Australia, which
not very many tourists visit. We met two cars all day.

ULURU
We are slowly approaching another highlight of Australian landscape, Uluru or Ayers Rock. This is arguably one of
the most visited Icons of Australia. 400’000 visitors a year cannot go by unmanaged. And that is exactly what it is:
Managed. This world heritage site is jointly managed by the Aborigine owners and Park services. The whole lot is
managed by this one group. They do their best in order to give the best possible facilities to see Uluru from all
aspects from sunrise till sundown. The park gives the impression of being expertly manicured. It sort of reminded
me of Disneyland. The whole Area including the Kata Tjuta (Olgas) are significant sacred sites to the local Anangu
Aborigine People. They are very traditional and keep to the old ways in as much as they do not want outsiders to
know all the secret stories around Uluru. They part with small snippets of stories, but do not part with their knowledge
to non initiated outsiders. This goes so far, that they do not even talk about what kind of creator beings have built
Kata Tjuta or promote or explain the lovely rock art which can be seen by walking around Uluru. Maybe this is the
reason, why we did not get warm with Uluru. Granted, the monolith looks daunting when you see it from a far and
the colour changes are stunning. It is lovely for the eyes but leaves the heart cold.

There are still people climbing the rock despite health, hygienic and safety warnings and cultural concerns by the
Anangu people. 40 people have died on the rock hundreds have been hurt and more died later from the effects of
the 380m high almost vertical climb. The hygienic concerns have to do with the fact, that there is no toilet on the
summit and rains wash the human waste down the rock slides into the lovely waterholes which have been drinking
water to the people and animals alike. Even animals do not like to drink out of them anymore. The Anangu are Mala
people that means their Ancestor Spirit is the Mala, the rufus hare wallaby. Together with the marsupial mole which
has its meanings at Uluru, the black footed rock Wallaby and numerous other animals, the Mala does not live here
anymore. The landscape is empty of marsupials and we have seen few birds. The one surprising bird we have seen
there was the brown quail.