Page 195 - Mit dem Wohnwagen durch Australien 2

Between here and Walpoole we encountered another Mammoth tree, the Tingle Tingle; so called because of its red
wood. Tingle in the local Aboriginal language means red. The Tingle is one of the oldest trees on earth and a
remnant of Gondwanaland. This area is the only place on earth where they still grow. They develop very large in
circumference, sometimes over 20 m. Fungi and fire hollow it out in the middle but its nutrients circulate in the outer
shell and the tree grows nevertheless Some of the trees are over 400 years old. One was so large, that a car could
drive through its hollowed out base. Unfortunately it recently died. Tingles have very shallow roots. In order to
support its huge trunk, it builds buttresses and grows its roots over large areas. Humans where stupid enough to
build a car park too close to the large tree and it could not get any nutrients anymore. It died recently.

We bravely tackle Mount Frankland, one of the very few 4000er, ooops 400 m high mountains of W.A. We climb up
a very steep path and the 323 uneven steps and a metal ladder in order to see the extensive forested area around
us. On one side trees down to the coast on the other three nothing but wooded hills as far as we could see. The top
of Mount Franklin is sheer gneiss and resembles a conic hat. We decide to take the forest walk below the steps
around its base back towards the car park and ended up climbing over rocks, fallen trees and craggy runnels. It was
a bit more than we had bargained for and we got ourselves quite some muscle aches the next day.

The South Coast of W.A. is very rugged and picturesque. Near Albany we walk out to the bridge, a natural
phenomenon. The cliffs are pure Gneiss. This rock grew billions of years ago. Large pressure and constant friction
created sand which melted and blubbered to the surface, building black veins of granite which is much finer grained
than Gneiss. Australia was part of Gondwanaland and severed itself about 45 million years ago from Antarctica. The
exact same rock formations exist 6200 km to the South. Australia drifts every year 5 to 6 cm farther North. It really
is one huge seafaring vessel floating in the Seas. The waves work continuously at its shores and have carved out
hollows in the rock which left bridges standing, or later, when these cave in, build gaps with dangerous maelstroms
of frothing waves. We watch this turmoil safely from a platform atop the sheer cliff, which falls down a whooping
25m.

ALBANY AND THE COBBLER
Albany is certainly worth a mention for several reasons. It sports one of the most beautiful coasts hereabouts; lots
of inlets, hidden coves and little white beaches, but also daunting cliffs and beautiful views.

It is also the last place in Australia where whales had been hunted. The whale base stopped in 1978 because the
trade did not bring any more money. Very sensibly, the company left the old buildings standing and it is now a
museum and a monument to the hunted whales. The displays are very impressing. They have the last whale chaser
fully restored and we could go everywhere. The crew quarters, the wheelhouse, the kitchen etc. It gave a very good
impression on the life on board such a ship. Hard as it was, it matched in no way, the work of the flensers on the
base. They got paid by the litre of oil they produced and worked nonstop come rain or shine. They stank to high
heaven and could not get rid of the stench during the season. They could not even take a refreshing bath in the sea,
because it was so full of sharks that were drawn there by blood of the death whales. He went swimming anyway.
Meanwhile the whales are well protected in these waters and most whale breeds have recovered satisfactorily. Only
the Japanese and Norwegian still insist on hunting these gentle giants of the seas, remnants of a long ago era.

At the same location there will soon be a park with native animals, some of them are already here. And that brings
us to my wish list and one item which is on there: to stroke a Koala! Lo and behold, there are these two Koalas sitting
on a fence and waiting for me. I tentatively touch one on the back and start scratching it. The Koala loves it. He
yawns, stretches and generally looks very happy. This emboldens me to scratch him behind the ears and neck. He
slowly closes its eyes and grunts with pleasure. I could too. One thing I can scratch off my bucket list.

Our first campground in Albany needs our space from Easter Thursday onwards. Well, Easter, school holidays and
the beach don’t go well with our idea of camping life; too many discos, screaming children and dirty toilets. Nevertheless
we can only move to our Easter Camping in the Mountains on Good Friday for reasons, we will unveil a bit later. We
are lucky to find Panorama campground directly on the beach of Princess Royal Harbour Bay and we immediately
move over so that we have three days in this idyllic spot. We have direct view of the little jetty which is usually
occupied by a flock of very well fed Pelicans who wait for the any fishermen to clean their bounty. Sometimes a large
Mantaray swims under the jetty and also takes what it can get.

On Thursday we get a new neighbour in a huge fifth wheeler. Paul and Loz just came back from a three months trip