Page 236 - Mit dem Wohnwagen durch Australien
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We console us with a swim in the Southern Ocean some Kilometres farther south to Port Elliot. It is astounding how
warm the water is, despite the fact, that the next land is Antarctica. In winter, the large whales come here to breed
and make the little ones fit for survival in the rough polar seas. The Aborigines dreaming tell of Kondoli, a strong, big
warrior and master of fire, who was invited to a gathering by a neighbouring clan. He went to the gathering and
brought them his fire. Some young hot bloods were jealous and one shot an arrow at Kondoli. The arrow went deep
into the neck of Kondoli and his fire came out in huge flames. Kondoli ran in to the water and a huge column of
steam hissed out. Kondoli transformed into a huge southern right whale. Form a far the blow of a whale does look
like steam. Since Whales are mammals and therefore warm blooded and the flesh of a stranded and whale is still
warm, they believe of the fireman who became a whale, is continually reinforced.
We did not see any whales, but were able to watch a number of sea lions frolicking in the rolling waves off the Surf
coast.
CULTURE
The Murray lured us to Mildura, the Arts and Film festival kept us there. We have found the, up to now, best
Campground directly at the Murray, across from the landing place of the old Paddle Steamers. We were able to sit
relaxed in front of our caravan and watch the steamers and houseboats cruise up and down the river while having
breakfast in the shade. We arrived at a perfect time. Friday, the festival opened with the movie Bright Star which was
opened by the producer Jan Chapman followed by an after film drinks and food party and we were part of it for only
AUD 10. The movie was very nice, beautiful costumes but not much action. A real Chick Flick. Saturday was Mardi
gras with a colourful carnival on the road. After dark there was a lovely parade of lighted boats, mostly paddle
steamer on the river, followed by fireworks. No sooner was it dark again, our eyes were not yet fully adjusted, and
we heard a rustling sound in the leaves on the ground. Beat quickly got his pocket light out. And there they were a
whole family of sweet furry possums. They even let us touch them, but they wanted a little bread from us which we
diligently provided.
The national Film Archive showed some Australian movies, some of which have not been seen for over 30 years.
Wake in freight was lost for 40 years; the archive has restored it and showed it there. The movie plays in the
outback, not far from Broken Hill. When it was shown first in 71 it created a big scandal inAustralia. It was considered
to brutal and raw. We did not see it that way and liked it. An open air concert of country singer Casey Chambers in
the Perry Sand hills was the highlight of the festival. However, the much longed for rain plaid havoc with these plans.
The parking space was one big swamp. 2500 tickets had already been sold and the organisers had to change
venue within 20 hours. They have done a splendid job and found a large packing shed of the fruit coop. The owners
cleared the shed, the organisers made a new parking concept, transported the tables, chairs and the catering for
the Champagne crowd over and the rest of us brought their own chairs, food and drink. They had to advertise the
change of venue via Radio, TV, Newspapers and big signs along the road. The evening was a full success. After the
last raindrops we even saw a romantic sunset through the open walls.
A FLAT
No, not a flat white, as the call the milky coffee here, but the real thing. We just wanted to leave for the farmers
market in the next village, when I spotted a flat tire on our Landcruiser. The first flat in our long car carrier! So far we
have only had one flat, and this on a Harley and also in Australia. What is it with this continent that makes the tires
go flat? It’s probably the weight of all of Europe pressing on it from the opposite side of the world. What shall we do?
The market closes at midday and we wanted to have breakfast there. Will we be in time? Should we call the Road
Assistance? Nothing of the kind. Beat rolls up his sleeves and tackles the problem. While I was sitting in the comfy
Camping Chair, Beat works and sweats until the deed is done, just in time for us to get to the bacon and eggs on
muffins at the market.
OUTBACK
Australia is full of Art, especially in the outback. Broken Hill presents from a far the impression of a bleak, gray, dirty
mining town. Silver, Zinc, Lead and any amount of other valuable minerals and metals were found and mined. The
landscape is arid and has fewer trees and is flatter than farther south. However, thanks to the rain in March, it rained
three times the annual average in one day, it is all green. Broken Hill from up close, is full of live, and art. We have
counted 20 Art galleries and visited a few. The most special is the one of Ando, who pained the world’s largest
panorama on canvas. Whether it is larger than the Murten Panorama in Switzerland I do not know, but this one
portrays the outback excellently. On the hills behind the City a Sculpture Symposium has left sculptures of artists of
many countries. They look very grand at sunset.